Hikers Log - trail date: day 3

(Gooch Mountain Shelter (mile 15.7) - Jarrard Gap (mile 26.2))

Good news! I woke up this morning to a dry sleeping quilt! After momentarily rejoicing, I began to pack my things and dismantle camp. I prefer to leave camp before eating breakfast, so I hit the trail at about 8:45am with the goal of finding a scenic spot to eat. After only 10 minutes or so of hiking, I found a nice secluded ridge to enjoy my breakfast. I ended up hanging out at the same spot for a little over an hour when I realized I had enough service to update my hiker's log. In case you haven't noticed, my previous two posts have been delayed by a day. I'll try to keep this schedule constant if possible, but I make no guarantees🤷‍♂️

So I resumed hiking at about 10:15am and made good time to Gooch Gap where I collected a liter of water in anticipation of a 3 mile hike to the next water source. I am quickly learning to estimate the amount of water I need to carry between water sources. I have 2 liters of water carrying capacity, but I rarely ever collect that much. Water is extremely heavy at about 2 pounds/liter, meaning each liter weighs twice as much as my tent. Fortunately, this section of the trail is teaming with springs. When I reach a water source, I drink whatever water I am still carrying. Then I check Guthook (my navigation app) to see how far away the next water source is as well as the upcoming elevation change. This generally results in me collecting about a liter of water at a time. I'll fine tune this system as I continue my hike, but for now it is working well and I am staying hydrated.

After Gooch Gap I began climbing the ridge to reach two spectacular lookout points on Ramrock Mountain. The views along this ridge were consistantly outstanding, and I briefly met up with Amoeba and three other guys out for a weeklong section hike at the first overlook. Amoeba was gracious enough to offer me homemade teriyaki jerky which I quickly devoured while soaking in the view.

After another 1.5 miles I reached Woody Gap which I quickly recognized as the starting point for my only previous backpacking trip over Blood Mountain. I was pretty young at the time and I did the hike as a part of "Outdoor Camp" with the Blue Ridge Outdoor Education Center. I think it was a two or three night trip, and I remember loving every second of it. Outdoor Camp provided my first experiences with backpacking and I think that trip was my second or third summer with the camp. I was introduced to the concept of thru-hiking at Outdoor Camp, so passing through Woody Gap during my own thru-hike attempt was really cool.

On the climb out of Woody Gap, I met a fellow thru-hiker named Madeleine who did her undergraduate at UC Berkeley and just finished her master's at Columbia. Madeline told me that she hopes to go into environmental policy and science communication. She also happens to be waiting to hear back from PhD programs, so we talked for a while about grad school admissions and our respective research interests.

After a steep mile long climb out of Woody Gap, we reached "Preacher's Rock" on Big Cedar Mountain. Gathered on the rock were probably 30 people including many of the thru-hikers I have been traveling with recently. Also mixed in the bunch were a a handful of day hikers and section hikers. I decided to stop for a bit to chat with Tyler, Caroline, and Madeline. I also met a young man named Obediah. He explained that he was part of a group of six friends joining their buddy Danny who was beginning his thru-hike attempt. Obediah was super friendly and asked me about why I was hiking the AT. He then handed me a tiny pamphlet entitled "A Love Letter From Jesus" including a bunch of bible passages about the love of god. I politely thanked Obediah and chatted a bit more with him and some other hikers and then decided to continue.

Crowded overlook at Preacher's Rock

After less than a mile, I came to a side trail which I assumed led to a water source. Instead it led to a wonderful little capsite with an overlook rivaling Preacher's Rock. I had the camsite and overlook all to myself so I decided this was the perfect spot for lunch and took time to stretch, elevate my legs, and let my feet air out. I try to stretch three times a day and so far have been mostly successful. My feet are also doing extremely well - no blisters or hotspots to report so far!

After lunch I found the actual water source and was excited to encounter my first salamanders of the trip. I found two little brown lungless salamanders chilling in a pool at the start of a little spring. My lungless salamander id is rusty, so I'm not sure of the species, but they were entirely unphased by my presence or the camera looming over them.

I cruised the next mile or so to Lance Creek. As expected based on my conversation with the ridge runner last night, the campsite was full. I collected two liters of water because the water source at Jarrard Gap is apparently unreliable. The next three miles to Jarrard Gap passed quickly. When I was about a half mile out, I ran into the group of six young guys including Obediah. They told me they were headed to Jarrard, and although their pace was slower than mine, I decided to hike with them for a little company.

We reached the Forest Service campsite at Jarrard gap at about 4:30 and I set up my tent on the windy side of the ridge. The views are better on this side, but we will see how cold I get tonight. I started soaking my dinner and decide to start looking for a spot to set up a bear bag. I have learned that the most important part of a bear bag hang is finding a good branch and I had a hell of a time finding one. After what felt like an hour I finally got a satisfactory hang and decided to join the group of guys around the fire pit for dinner. I learned that they all knew each other through a Zoom bible study. Three of them also work together at a nondenominational worship and alternative medicine center near Elijay, Georgia.

We talked for a while about our respective backgrounds including my research interests and their advocacy for alternative healing practices. Altogether, it was a very fascinating conversation and after dinner they invited me to join them for a bible reading. My first instinct was to decline as I was mildly concerned that they were going to try to induct me into a cult, but all the vibes I had been getting from them were friendly and welcoming, so I figured why not. After all, the AT is the perfect place to push yourself out of your comfort zone! Together we read from John (chapter 15, I believe) and I listened as they discussed their own interpretations of the chapter. By now the sun had set and the fire was blazing. They closed the reading with a prayer for Danny and me as we begin our thru-hikes. Then the young man who led the reading played his tin flute for a bit and we all began to disperse for bed. It was a very peaceful end to an excellent day🌄

Tomorrow I hike Blood Mountain and resupply at Neel's Gap!

Two raptors locked in
avian acrobatics:
conflict or courtship?

Did a branch become a root? Did two trees become one? Is it a woodland portal? Surely one of the trail's great mysteries.

Hikers Log - trail date: day 2

(Stover Creek Shelter (mile 2.8) - Gooch Mountain Shelter (mile 15.7))

My first full day on the Appalachian Trail! I woke up this morning to a sleeping quilt with a damp footbox, which wasn't ideal. You see, I use a garbage bag as a waterproof liner inside my pack (it's cheap, lightweight, and easy to replace) and I thought it would be a good idea to repurpose the garbage bag at night as a waterproof sleeve to cover the foot of my quilt. The reasoning behind this was to protect my quilt against condensation collecting on the walls of my tent. Unfortunately, the garbage bag had the opposite effect, instead functioning as a poorly ventilated condensation sauna. To add insult to injury, my tent walls were completely dry! I'm sure these first weeks will be full of teachable moments like this😅

After drying off my quilt with my bandana, I packed my things and had a 15 minute stretching session before starting for the day. My goal was to make it to Gooch Mountain Shelter, which meant I was looking to do around 13 miles. That's a pretty long walk for day 2, but I was feeling good and planning a shorter day for tomorrow.

I left camp at about 9:00am with the goal of finding a nice scenic cat hole spot before breaking my fast. I accomplished my goal and ate my very hardy breakfast at three forks campsite next to the intersection of Chester Creek and Stover Creek (which becomes Long Creek). Much of the morning's hiking followed Long Creek, winding me through emerald tunnels of Mountain Laurel. A highlight of the morning was definitely Long Creek Falls, a multi-tiered cascade with a couple (very steep) spur trails for dramatic waterfall views.

One of the many cascades of Long Creek Falls

As I continued hiking, I saw many familiar faces. For much of the day, I played tag with Lauren (the accountant I met last night) and Tyler and Caroline (a couple I met yesterday on Springer Mountain). I hiked with Lauren for a little while and she was happy to share some personal finance tips for thru-hiking, including limiting time in towns, avoiding atm fees, and always entering the grocery store with a shopping list. I'm sure the last tip will be especially relevant when the hiker hunger really starts to kick in. I also met a new hiker who goes by the trail name "Amoeba." Amoeba is from Ohio and is currently in the Air Force Reserves and attending Bowling Green State University (where my father did his undergrad). He's planning to do a LASH (long ass section hike), from Springer to Damascus, Virginia.

The toughest part of the day was the climb out of Horse Gap to the top of Sassafras Mountain, which included about 650 feet of elevation change over a mile. It doesn't sound like a lot when I write it out, but trust me, it was a challenge. As I climbed the mountain, I was reminded of something Jimmy Chin says during the mountaineering documentary "Meru." High in the Himalayas while attempting a first ascent of a seamingly impossible climb, he jokingly says "we do it for the views." I would never dare to conflate myself with Jimmy Chin, but I kept repeating that quote to myself as I powered up the mountain. When I reached the top, I was indeed rewarded with excellent views and the ridge hiking was delightful.

A hardy lunch fueled me during the climb up Sassafras Mountain

I made it to Gooch Mountain Shelter at roughly 4:30pm and was greeted with a nearly full campsite. I was lucky enough to grab one of the last two tent pads. I started soaking my dinner and sat down by the fire pit to chat with some fellow hikers. I quickly noticed a lady wearing a name tag that said "Lilly". I asked Lilly about her nametag and she explained that she was the ridge runner for this section of the trail. As I understand it, ridge runners are seasonal AT Conservancy employees who work jointly with Amicalola Falls State Park. They work during peak hiking season patroling different sections of the trail to pick up trash, encourage proper backcountry etiquette, and survey for potential issues (underprepared hikers, overcrowding, bears lurking near shelters, etc.). Lilly told me that she is from New York where she's earned two masters degrees in the CUNY system. She's recently been working in super fancy Michelin Star restaurants as a server and is considering possibly pursuing a PhD exploring the social dynamics of restaurants. I really enjoyed talking to Lilly and it was great to have such a positive interaction with an AT Conservancy employee. I guess I shouldn't have expected otherwise.

Tomorrow I'm planning a short day. I'll be hiking about 10.5 miles to Jarrard Gap. This should be my first night not sleeping at a shelter, which will be nice to avoid crowding. I would have liked to spend the night on Blood Mountain, but hard-sided bear canisters are required for overnight camping in the Blood Mountain Wilderness Area and alas, I am not carrying one. As I understand it, this is the only portion of the trail that requires a bear canister and I'll have no problem hiking through it on day 4. Still no trail name✌

Last second cat hole
dig faster man, dig faster
oh no, here it comes!

More Long Creek Falls

A very good tree

Hikers Log - trail date: day 1

Amicalola Falls - Stover Creek Shelter (mile 2.8)

Today has been a good day! AC and I got to Amicalola Falls State Park a little before noon. We both sat through thru-hiker orientation at the visitor center. A trail ambassador and park ranger named Tom gave us the run down on the AT in Georgia and stressed good Leave No Trace practices. He also recommended that if I felt good when I reached Springer Mountain (the official southern terminus of the AT, which comes after the 8.8 mile AT approach trail), that I should push another 2.8 miles to Stover Creek Shelter. This was advised to avoid potential overcrowding at Springer Mountain Shelter.

After orientation, another trail ambassador named Laurie took pictures of me and AC under the iconic arch marking the start of the AT approach trail. AC also got pictures of me solo under the arch. After the hardest "see you later" of my life, I took the first steps towards Maine.

I must admit, the slew of emotions I felt during the first few minutes on trail was a bit overwhelming. First, there was sadness for the fact that I will not be seeing most of my friends and loved ones over the next five months. Sadness quickly clashed with excitement and anticipation for the upcoming journey and the friends I'll make along the way. In that moment, the enormity of the challenge ahead really started to sink in. My AT thru-hike attempt has begun, and I have a long way to go before I will really be able to call myself a "thru-hiker."

Per Tom's advice, I collected water at first bridge I crossed, and it's a good thing I did! The first six miles or so of the AT approach trail were bone dry. A liter and a half was just about perfect to get me through the first part of the day.

The first fellow prospective thru-hiker I met was Rita, a recent retiree born in Atlanta who has lived most of her adult life in Toronto. We hiked together for a bit and discussed trail names, canoeing in Ontario, and backpacking food strategies. I really enjoyed hiking with Rita, but we both quickly recognized that our paces weren't compatible and I hiked on while she took a break after a steep climb.
The next prospective thru-hiker I met was an older gentleman who goes by the trail name "Monk." We chatted for a bit and he told me he has a hiking YouTube channel. He proceeded to hand me a literal business card with his channel logo and contact info. I haven't had the chance to check it out yet, but if you would like to, his channel is named "wanderingmonkpaths."

I made it to Springer Mountain at about 4:30 where I met Clarence, a man who decided to hike the AT two days ago and was carrying nothing but a school backpack. I enjoyed talking to Clarence and he offered to take my picture next to the plaque marking the official southern terminus of the AT.

After enjoying the view for a bit, I collected water from Springer Mountain Shelter. The campsite didn't look too crowded, but I was feeling good, so I decided to continue on to Stover Creek Shelter. I started my dinner soaking on top of Springer Mountain and started hiking again.

I made it to the shelter around 5:30ish which gave me enough daylight to set up my tent, eat dinner, and collect more water. From what I can tell, there are about the same number of people camping here as there were at Springer. While I ate, I talked with a group of ladies including one applying to grad programs in history, one applying to law school, and one who quit her corporate accounting job to hike the AT. It's really fascinating seeing all the different types of people the trail attracts. Nearly every age and background seems to be represented out here. I'm looking forward to all the people I'll meet and the places I'll see tomorrow. Trail name still pending✌

Today I set out
in search of an adventure
on the path to Maine

The adventure begins: Me and the original AT plaque on Springer Mountain. Poking out from the left border of this picture you can see the very first white blaze of the trail painted on the rock next to the plaque.

Hikers Log - trail date: 7 days until start

Welcome to my "Hikers Log!" This is the place where I plan to chronicle my 2021 Appalachian Trail thru-hike attempt. For those who don't know, the Appalachian Trail (or AT) is the longest hiking-only footpath in the world, stretching 2193.1 miles and traversing 14 states from Georgia to Maine. I'll start my adventure on March 8th and I hope to complete the journey in about 150 days.

If you found this website, you probably know me, but in case you don't, I'll introduce myself. My legal name is John, but everyone calls me Jack. I graduated college in May 2020 and have spent the last few months applying to graduate programs and conducting research on vision evolution in frogs. When asked, I usually introduce myself as an "early career frog scientist."

Hiking the AT has been a lifelong goal. Over the last four years I've finally saved enough money and accumulated the gear necessary to begin a thru-hike attempt. As I write this, eager to begin my hike, I think it's important to recognize how incredibly privileged I am to have the health, time, and money to pursue this dream.

I should also acknowledge that this is a strange and uncertain time to begin a thru-hike. Currently, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (a nonprofit that helps maintain the trail) is recommending that people postpone thru-hiking until the CDC deems the pandemic "under control." However, they have also published guidelines on COVID-19 precautions for hikers. I respect the AT Conservancy and I deeply appreciate the work they do to maintain the trail. Therefore, while I still plan to begin my thru-hike, I also aim to adhere to the AT Conservancy's guidance on responsible hiking practices to reduce disease spread.

I think that's all for now. The next time I post, I'll be on the trail!